EDIT: If you are a 2nd Amendment supporter, you should probably read about Troy's hiring a Ruby Ridge shooter, before continuing.
I haven’t used my Troy magazines too much yet to talk about reliability, but I can show you some pictures, and tell you a little bit about them.
The Troy Battlemags come with two different lock-plates. They come assembled with a pull-tab lockplate, which you can use to pull the magazine out of a mag pouch. You also get a flat lock-plate if you don’t want or need the pull-tab. It’s a nice touch, to be sure. It beats paying three-something dollars for a standard Magpul or a couple dollars more for a Ranger plate. I guess it might be a problem when you go to Tap-Pull-Roll-Rack with a partially loaded magazine.
The Troy magazine base-plate is held on with tabs, much like a Lancer L5 magazine. The Lancer disassembly tool actually works really well on the Troy magazine. The Lancer tool is piece of plastic that usually sells for around $3, but you might find them cheaper on closeout since the new Lancer magazines don’t require a tool to disassemble. You don’t really need the tool, you could use the tip of a bullet to push in the tabs, but it can be difficult to get one, and then get the other, without the first tab popping back into place. The Lancer tool pushes in both tabs at the same time.
The Troy base-plate is slim; it’s actually the same width as the rest of the magazine. If you want a polymer mag, but the wide bases on PMags are pissing you off, or they just don’t work with your vest or pouches, then the Troy’s may be for you.
The Troy follower is an anti-tilt unit, in high-visibility green. The spring it bent, such that the follower is pushed straight up, rather than rear-first, as is the usual with most AR/M-16 magazines, including the PMags.
The magazine body has a fish-scale checkering pattern on the sides and down the front and back. All the texturing is oriented to give maximum traction when pulling on the magazine. When seating a Troy magazine, you had better get your palm at least part-way under the base-plate. If I were texturing a magazine body, I would probably use multi-directional pineapple grenade checking, like Glock used on their 2nd and 3rd generation frames, or maybe stippling - like between 36 and 60 grit.
If you need some kind of a pull tab to get mags out of your vest or pouches, these may be a good deal. If you like 6-pack SAW magazine pouches or something, and the fat base-plates of PMags won’t fit, the Troy mags may work out for you. I do like the high-visibility followers, and the bend on the top coil of the spring is something that should get done all the time, but usually doesn’t get done. I guess they aren’t my favorite magazines, but there’s really not anything wrong with them, and under certain conditions I can see them being very desireable.
EDIT, 10/21/12: I've run 3 full loads through one of the Troy mags, without any issues. I've loaded it with M193, and put it in with my SHTF stash. The other one will make it into the rotation for further testing.
I haven’t used my Troy magazines too much yet to talk about reliability, but I can show you some pictures, and tell you a little bit about them.
Battlemags with and without pull-tab
The Troy Battlemags come with two different lock-plates. They come assembled with a pull-tab lockplate, which you can use to pull the magazine out of a mag pouch. You also get a flat lock-plate if you don’t want or need the pull-tab. It’s a nice touch, to be sure. It beats paying three-something dollars for a standard Magpul or a couple dollars more for a Ranger plate. I guess it might be a problem when you go to Tap-Pull-Roll-Rack with a partially loaded magazine.
The Troy magazine base-plate is held on with tabs, much like a Lancer L5 magazine. The Lancer disassembly tool actually works really well on the Troy magazine. The Lancer tool is piece of plastic that usually sells for around $3, but you might find them cheaper on closeout since the new Lancer magazines don’t require a tool to disassemble. You don’t really need the tool, you could use the tip of a bullet to push in the tabs, but it can be difficult to get one, and then get the other, without the first tab popping back into place. The Lancer tool pushes in both tabs at the same time.
The Troy base-plate is slim; it’s actually the same width as the rest of the magazine. If you want a polymer mag, but the wide bases on PMags are pissing you off, or they just don’t work with your vest or pouches, then the Troy’s may be for you.
The Troy follower is an anti-tilt unit, in high-visibility green. The spring it bent, such that the follower is pushed straight up, rather than rear-first, as is the usual with most AR/M-16 magazines, including the PMags.
The magazine body has a fish-scale checkering pattern on the sides and down the front and back. All the texturing is oriented to give maximum traction when pulling on the magazine. When seating a Troy magazine, you had better get your palm at least part-way under the base-plate. If I were texturing a magazine body, I would probably use multi-directional pineapple grenade checking, like Glock used on their 2nd and 3rd generation frames, or maybe stippling - like between 36 and 60 grit.
If you need some kind of a pull tab to get mags out of your vest or pouches, these may be a good deal. If you like 6-pack SAW magazine pouches or something, and the fat base-plates of PMags won’t fit, the Troy mags may work out for you. I do like the high-visibility followers, and the bend on the top coil of the spring is something that should get done all the time, but usually doesn’t get done. I guess they aren’t my favorite magazines, but there’s really not anything wrong with them, and under certain conditions I can see them being very desireable.
EDIT, 10/21/12: I've run 3 full loads through one of the Troy mags, without any issues. I've loaded it with M193, and put it in with my SHTF stash. The other one will make it into the rotation for further testing.
No comments:
Post a Comment